A spontaneous week in Italy...
Introduction
It was one of those evenings where we sat together on the couch just hanging around and enjoying each other’s company. I had just returned from India two weeks before but as usual my mind was thinking where to go next. I could not resist checking the website of our not so favorite airline, looking for cheap tickets from Weeze to Crotone, as this was the last year these flights were scheduled.
My first plan was to check for September, around my birthday but prices were steep during that time. June was another thing; prices were ridiculously cheap…. So spontaneously I decided to treat Vladi on a trip to his birth town and visit his family again. It was all done and taken care of before he realized.
Next was finding a place to stay, unfortunately the apartment we usually stay when in Crotone was fully booked for the week but we found another brand-new place in the old city center which really looked good.
Another trip had been planned within minutes….
The Journey
Although we had the feeling we had just gone to bed to alarm already went off at 03:00, time for a quick shower, get dressed and drive to Weeze Airport.
For most people it was still in the middle of the night but for us it was just a small price to pay for a flight to Crotone that was hardly more expensive than a train ticket to Amsterdam… Our journey had begun.
We arrived in Weeze nicely in time, parked our car and then passed check-in and security. All went smooth so we had plenty of time to relax before boarding started. We took off a couple of minutes before scheduled departure time and managed to arrive half an hour early.
A taxi short ride later we were dropped at the parking lot in front of Castello Carlo 5, our B&B was in one of the narrow alleys opposite of it. In former days this wasn’t the best area of Crotone but things had been cleaned up and it looked really nice. Our B&B was brand new and immaculate. It had been a good choice.
We made a short stroll through the area where Vladi spent his childhood, straight to the Lungo Mare of Crotone and our favorite hangout, Alexander a Mare. It felt strange to be at a place so familiar and still, in many aspects so far away. This was our fourth trip together to Vladi’s hometown so I already got my bearings. At Alexander a Mare we enjoyed a truly delicious spaghetti with tartar of scampi, Vladi opted for a version with garlic sauce (with plenty of garlic to say the least, whilst I choose for the bisque sauce.
Next was a short stop at a nearby gelateria. I already made clear before our departure this would be a crucial stop. Fortunately, it did not disappoint as they had my beloved liquirice ice-cream so all problems for the upcoming week were solved. By now we started to feel our lack of sleep so we returned to our room for a well-deserved and badly needed afternoon nap.
Once we woke up, we returned to the lungo mare where we met Vladi’s niece Maria Teresa and her husband Pasquale. Last time we saw them was at our place so it was nice to catch up again.
Another short walk later we visited Vladi’s sister and her son Danilo at his Burger bar Ginis and after that we went to a pizzeria for a true Calabrian treat, Calzone, a spicy and fried folded pizza. We returned to Alexander a Mare for a nightcap but then it was time to go back to our room for a well-deserved sleep. It had been a long long day….
Next morning we felt somehow alive again, both of us had enjoyed a long and uninterrupted sleep and woke up after 9 o’clock. First thing on our list was breakfast at our favorite pasticceria; a superb Italian coffee and an even better cornetto con crema. This is how a day in Italy starts for us.
Then it was time for the most important visit of the trip. We made a stroll to the cemetery to visit Vladi’s mum who passed away far too young 53 years ago. Normally a grave is cleared after 50 years so it was really special, we could still pay our respects as we already expected last year to be the last time. It was an emotional moment for Vladi to visit his mum, who he really never got the chance to know well as she passed away when he was only five years old. A scar that never healed.
Once Vladi, what is likely, said his final goodbyes we made a stroll along the lungo mare and the old harbor. I truly enjoyed the fish stalls where fish was sold that was only caught the previous night. It couldn’t get fresher than this. We enjoyed a light lunch at Alexander a Mare before we returned to our room for an afternoon nap.
Some hours later we were picked up by Vladi’s sister Maria and her husband Enzo who brought us to Teresa, another sister for a surprise visit. Unfortunately, I hardly understood a word what was spoken during the vivid conversation but the three of them were having a good time and that was all that mattered.
Back at the city center we returned to the lungo mare for a bite to eat. We found a small restaurant which had no fixed menu so we just enjoyed the menu of the day. It was accompanied with San Giù, an excellent Calabrian red wine which we enjoyed so much we ordered a second bottle. We ended up with a nice conversation with the owner and his wife, the perfect ending of our first day in Crotone.
Next morning we had a long sleep in before we headed towards the lungo mare for a bite to eat. We had decided to skip breakfast and go for brunch instead. As Vladi suffered from a headache we returned to our room for a relaxing day reading a book and sleeping a bit.
Fortunately, in the evening Vladi felt much better as we were picked up by Pasquale as Maria Teresa (Vladi’s niece) had prepared a wonderful homecooked meal for us. It was a fabulous evening although I disliked the fact that I failed to learn Italian. The most important thing though was I could see that Vladi was immensely enjoying himself. And the food? Simply delicious! After Pasquale brought us back to Lungo Mare we made a stroll alongst the beach and had a final drink at Alexander a Mare. Another day had come to an end.
After a good night of sleep Vladi felt much better. Traditionally we made our way to Bar Morelli for a coffee and a cornetto con crema. We had planned a beach day but it was slightly overcast and windy. But there’s always a plan B.
We made a long walk across the Lungo Mare and enjoyed the beach which was now rather empty. On our way we stopped at a beach bar for a well-deserved beer. At the harbor I had seen a place which looked like a nice restaurant to me and with the appeal of eating some fresher than fresh fish we headed over there. Unfortunately, on arrival we found out it was just a bar for a drink so we returned to our safe place in Crotone, Alexander a Mare, and enjoyed lunch with exactly what we wanted, fresh seafood.
By now the area was getting very warm and very quiet, with other words time for a siesta. Something we really enjoyed, but once I woke up I needed to go to the toilet, leaned slightly on the bathroom furniture when I stood up and then…
It collapsed! An awful noise, the sink shattered to pieces but that was all, so far… I tried to clean up the mess and then next I saw there was a deep cut in my hand, something I immediately knew would not heal by itself. We called the owners of our B&B who were extremely apologetic and brought me to hospital for my hand to be stitched.
All in true Italian style as at first they could not find the anesthetics, the whole procedure took place under slightly different conditions (less hygienic) than would have been the case in German and during the stitching the nurse assisting the doctor was distracted as her phone suddenly rang… Benvenuto in Italia! Somehow, I remained calm and took things for granted.
Back at our B&B a new sink had been installed, the mess had been cleared and all was settled with the extremely friendly and apologetic owners. I don’t know who was sorrier, them or us.
I really felt like a drink now so we returned to the lungo mare where we enjoyed a more than deserved Campari Spritz. Vladi’s family had been informed by now about the accident and all of them were more worried than was justified.
We enjoyed a great dinner, made another stroll alongst the boulevard and then returned to our B&B where we admired the newly installed sink. It had been an adventurous day, slightly different than anticipated but then… Benvenuto in la bella Italia!
In spite of my “serious” hand operation I slept well and woke up refreshed. One shower later and a sink still in place we headed to a pasticcheria in the harbor for our traditional coffee and cornetta con crema. It was nice but I did prefer our normal place so this was a one-time visit…
It was Saturday, a good excuse to head to the market where by coincidence we met Maria and Enzo. I did love the fresh produce of vegetables which seem to be so much nicer than the ones we get at home. Everything just breathed quality, no wonder the food over here is so good. With ingredients like this one simple can’t go wrong.
We continued our wat through the city center to visit a bank. During renovations remains were found from the Middle Ages till the Roman and Greek times. Unfortunately, the excavation site was closed so we could not admire them.
Back at the old harbor we admired the fish stalls and zipped from a crodino whilst watching the world pass by. And next we made a stroll passed lungo mare again. We did resist stopping at Alexander but continued our way on for a light lunch. The real reason we went that far though was to enjoy a liquirice ice cream and liquor at a place that was recommended to us by Maria Teresa. It might be further away than our usual gelateria but the liquirice ice is so much better!
Next, we returned to our apartment for an afternoon nap. I was not allowed to swim anyway but besides that, it was really warm in the sun.
When we woke up, we went for another stroll and visited Vladi’s sister Gabriella again. Then we continued to the lungo mare to start the evening with a traditional Campari Spritz. Next was the question where to eat, finally we decided to go to a place at the other end of the harbor where we wanted to go some years ago but which was cancelled because of strong winds.
Ristorante Al Lanternino lies at the end of the pier, far away from the noisy lungomare. Vladi enjoyed a tasty potato pie as a starter while I chose for a dish of Chicory, bacala and a chickpea cream. For the main course Vladi opted for a dish of fried seafood whilst I had spaghetti with sea anemones. Something completely new for me, tasty and a typical dish full of sapore di mare. It was a great evening which we finished with another stroll alongst the lungo mare before we headed home. It was the latest night so far but a really enjoyable one. Two more days before we fly home, time really flies when you are having a good time…
A good sleep, a fresh shower, an espresso and we were ready for a new day. Once again Pasquale and Maria Teresa picked us up for a day tour to the Sila Mountains.
Our first stop was Camigliatello Silano and the journey covered about 78 kilometers. This took us around one hour. Once we left the Ionian coast at Crotone, we headed west toward the interior of Calabria. As the route climbed gradually inland, the landscape changed from coastal plains and rolling hills to dense pine forests and mountain scenery. It was simply gorgeous.
The road passed near several small Calabrian communities, including San Giovanni in Fiore, one of the largest towns in the Sila region. From there, the ascent continued through the beautiful forests of Sila National Park before we reached Camigliatello Silano, a popular mountain resort known for its fresh air, outdoor activities, and traditional Calabrian cuisine.
The small city was lively and full of food stalls, heaven for the both of us. We stopped at a salumeria to buy some paninis with provola, porchetta and porchini and whilst I looked around my heart skipped some beats.
Years ago, we discovered Grappa Nigredo, a delicious but rare Calabrian grappa infused with liquirice. We have not been able to find it ever since but my eyes spotted a bottle of it on the shells. Vladi was extremely excited as well and asked if it was the final bottle. It wasn’t as the friendly saleswoman came up with another bottle. More than happy we left the store with two bottles which we will very sparsely and intensely enjoy.
Next, we drove to a small restaurant for a traditional Calabrian specialty, cuddrureddr. It is made from a simple dough of flour and potatoes, shaped into rings, braids, or decorative figures and then fried until golden and crisp. Still warm it was then rolled in sugar before it was offered to us. A light but delicious treat.
Then we drove to Lago Arvo, a large artificial lake nestled in the heart of the Sila Mountains and surrounded by dense pine forests, rolling hills, and picturesque villages, it was a beautiful spot where we made a small hike and a well-deserved drink before we returned to Crotone.
Time for an afternoon nap before we were going out with a large part of Vladi’s family, an evening the both of us were really looking forward to.
After a refreshing shower before we headed towards Lungo Mare. At this time of the day (By now it was just past 8pm) it was very busy as we were not the only ones going out for dinner.
When we arrived, we spotted some familiar faces waiting for us so we said hello to them in the warmest Italian way. Slowly more family arrived and once the group was complete, we entered the pizzeria. There was some confusion as the reservation for 20 was written down as a reservation for 2. But after a vivid discussion to find out who made the mistake (It was the person who made the reservation) things started moving and an extended table for the family was prepared.
Once seated the chatting continued and although I did not understand a word it was nice to see the interaction between three generations of Laratta. Even better was to see a big smile on Vladi’s face as encounters like these don’t happen often.
The pizzas were excellent; all made with fresh ingredients and a totally different league from what we get at home. It was a wonderful evening which flew by far too quick and before we realized it was time to say our goodbyes. Alla prossima, although we are not sure when that will be.
Before returning to our B&B we enjoyed a final Campari Spritz at Alexander a Mare, another day had come to an end.
Next morning both of us woke up refreshed after a good night of sleep. Our first stop of course was bar Morelli for what might be our last cafè e cornetta con crema this trip. We arrived just in time to grab a table outside. It’s a beautiful ritual every morning and I could really get used to this lifestyle. Once home tomorrow it’ll take a couple of days again to get used to our variety of coffee.
We made a stroll to the market where we bought a bottle of the excellent San Giù we had sampled a couple of days ago. I thought it would be a nice and romantic idea to finish of our trip in front of our B&B, sitting at the table in the narrow alley and zip from one of the best Calabrian wines we have tasted so far. The good news is that 6 bottles are on their way to our home but these will be saved for special occasions.
At the Lungo Mare we found a beachside café where we enjoyed a drink and watched the world pass by. Next, we went to Alexander a Mare for our final lunch. Vladi opter for a specialty burger but I choose spaghetti with sea urchin, something I tasted for the first time the previous year and won’t have the chance to eat soon again. Obviously, we had to return to the gelateria for our last liquirice ice-cream, a great way to say goodbye to Crotone.
After our now traditional afternoon nap we went to say goodbye to Gabriella and her son Danilo and then we returned to our room to pack our stuff. Then we enjoyed the bottle of San Giu the small terrace of our B&B. The perfect ending of a wonderful week.
We woke up the next morning before the alarm so we had plenty of time for a refreshing shower and pack the last things. A taxi brought us to the airport where we dropped our luggage and went through security. An uneventful flight later we arrived in Weeze, picked up our luggage and drove home. Another trip had come to an end.
Both of us were happy to return home. We had no chance to get homesick of Italy as we would return in 3 ½ week time anyway for another adventure in Campania.