A week in the city of angels,
where time rests and beauty awakens
Introduction
Somehow 2025 seemed to be the year for us to focus on Italy. Although we had already booked two trips earlier in the year we kept on talking about other destinations and somehow Rome came into mind. So, before we even had started our first journey, we booked a third trip for a week in the city of Angels. A worthy final of our Italian trilogy of 2025. Vladi knows Rome well, and his nephew Luigi lives there.
There are plenty of sights to visit and places to enjoy. It feels like a week won’t be enough but still perfect to get acquainted with Rome just a bit, enjoy the atmosphere and taste some of its famous dishes.
The journey
On the third of September we drove to Eindhoven, parked our car, and took a bus to the airport. Within minutes we had checked in our suitcase and went through security. All went very smooth.
Our Ryanair flight left a bit late but still we arrived in time at Rome Fiumicino Airport where we took a train to our apartment. There we arrived just after eleven in the evening, collected our key and after we dropped our luggage went straight to the restaurant around the corner for a Campari Spritz and a glass of wine.
In spite of the late hour the terrace was still filled and a lot of youngsters were enjoying themselves, just like us. We toasted on our arrival in the city of Angels but did not stay long, it had been a tiring day after all. But we had arrived in Rome and there was no way we should start our visit without a small celebration. Time for a good night of rest.
After a good but short night of sleep we woke up, took a refreshing shower and headed straight to the bar at the corner of the street for a caffe and a cornetto con crema. The caffe was delightful but I could have done without the cornetto, these are much better in Crotone.
When we arrived at the metro entrance we saw there was a four-hour strike announced. Fortunately, things in Italy are never as they seem and the trains were running as usual. We drove to termini and then boarded another train to the Colosseum. When we stepped outside the station, we were overwhelmed by what must be one of the most famous monuments in the world.
The Colosseum, officially the Flavian Amphitheatre is a massive, oval-shaped stone and concrete amphitheater built between 70-80 AD. It could held 50.000 to 80.000 spectators for gladiator fights, public spectacles and mock battles. This architectural marvel showcases the grandeur and brutality of the Roman empire.
As we were early, we made a full walk around the colosseum so we could enjoy it from all perspectives. We passed the Arch of Constantine and got a first glimpse of the Fora Romana, an impressive view.
Security to get into the Colosseum was tight, we had to show our tickets and passport three times and our luggage was checked as well. Then we joined the crowd in the Colosseum. As expected, it was massive. We truly enjoyed the remainders of the impressive monument and fantasized about the games which took place here two thousand years ago.
Next on our wish list was a visit to the Fora Romana but the cue to get in was horrendous so we decided to skip it. Instead, we headed towards the remainders of the Circus Maximus where not much was to be seen. We enjoyed a light lunch and continued to the Bocca della Verità, a marble sculpture which Vladi had told me many times about. It was located in the front portal of the Santa Maria church which we visited as well.
We continued our stroll towards the Vittoriano, a massive white marble monument dedicated to Vittorio Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy, built between 1885 and 1927 in neoclassical style.
But before we arrived there, we had a good view over the Fora Romana. It gave us a good impression from the size of what was once Rome’s heart of the city’s civic, religious, legal, and commercial life. From wherever we were though we one could not miss the massive structure of the Vittoriano, the Corinthian columns and the large statue of the king. We climbed the stairs and found our way to an elevator which brought us to the top of the monument from which we had a fabulous view over the seven hills on which Rome was built. It was absolutely breathtaking and definitely worth the hefty entrance fee.
After a short break for something to drink we returned to our apartment for a well-deserved rest. We had walked over 10 kilometers, not an easy thing in the heat of Rome.
Later in the evening we met at the restaurant around the corner of our apartment with Luigi, Vladi’s nephew, and were later accompanied by his girlfriend Anna. A wonderful way to finish our first day in Rome.
Next morning we took the metro towards the Vatican Museum. We arrived plenty in time so we still had time to enjoy a coffee at a bar in the neighborhood before we headed to the museum. Fortunately, we had skip the line tickets so… we could join the 10.30 entrance line. Benvenuto a Italia 😉 Once the line started moving though things went quickly though so no complaints.
The Vatican Museums are a vast complex within Vatican City that house the immense art and antiquities collections of the Catholic Church and the papacy, including masterpieces by Renaissance artists like Michelangelo and Raphael, as well as significant archaeological, ethno-anthropological, and modern art works. We went on a chronological journey through history and culture, culminating in the world-renowned Sistine Chapel. To be honest though, after having seen so much beauty I was a bit underwhelmed once in the chapel. Perhaps I’m spoiled by having seen so much fantastic places during the last couple of months.
After our tour we went to a restaurant for lunch and a well-deserved limoncello Spritz. Then we continued our way to the Piazza San Pietro for the famous basilica. First, we were turned off by another long queue but then decided to take our chance anyway. A wise decision as things did not seem as bad as they initially looked.
Visiting the basilica was a journey of awe-inspiring art, architectural grandeur, and deep spirituality, with highlights including the vast, opulent interior and Michelangelo’s Pietà.
We experienced an impressive approach through St. Peter’s Square, navigated large crowds, and descended into the Vatican Grottoes, all within the largest church in the world. More than once my jaw dropped as it was difficult to comprehend so much splendor in one single place. Impressive is an understatement but I simply cannot find a different word to describe what we just experienced.
To let things sink in we crossed the Tiber and ordered a large beer at a terrace in the area. Then we continued to the final visit of today, Castel Sant’Angelo, a circular fortress on the Tiber River in Rome, originally built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for his family around 123 AD, and now a national museum housing art and history collections. For centuries, it served as a papal fortress, tribunal, and prison, and is famous for its role in legends like the Archangel Michael’s vision ending the plague.
It was a great visit with some splendid views over Rome but by now we were getting a bit tired so we walked to the nearest metro station and headed back to our apartment.
But before going to sleep we enjoyed a perfect dinner and a great bottle of Italian red wine. At 21:00 we were back at our place. Tired but extremely satisfied…
The alarm went off early next morning as we had tickets at an early timeslot for the Museum and Crypt of Capuchins Friars. But before taking the metro over there we enjoyed a café at the bar at the corner.
By now we realized our apartment was at a perfect location, a quiet corner of Rome perhaps but only 100 meters away to the metro which led us everywhere we desired to go. It truly felt as a quiet oasis where we could retreat before mixing in with the hustle and bustle of the more popular places in Rome which were overcrowded by both locals and tourists.
It wasn’t a long way from Barberino metro station, and we were there just before the doors opened. The Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars in Rome features a museum detailing the Capuchin order’s history and a crypt decorated with the bones of approximately 4,000 friars. They were arranged in intricate architectural designs like chandeliers and arches, serving as a poignant reminder of mortality and the fleeting nature of life, a concept known as memento mori.
To be honest it was a bit morbid and I joked to Vladi it was good we had not eaten breakfast yet. From the crypt it was only a short and enjoyable walk to the Trevi fountain. It was clear we came close to a popular tourist spot as the streets were more crowded and tourist shops became more present.
The Trevi Fountain is Rome’s largest Baroque fountain, famous for its dramatic sculptures, particularly the central figure of Oceanus, God of the sea, atop a chariot. Designed by Nicola Salvi and completed in 1762, the monument is constructed from travertine stone and draws water from the ancient Aqua Virgo aqueduct.
I was prepared for the worst but to be honest it was not as bad as I had expected, still there was time enough to make pictures of this tourist hotspot without people. Still for some of the visitors a selfie seemed to be more important than enjoying the magnificent fountain itself.
A short and pleasant stroll away was Palazzo Collona, one of the largest and oldest private residences in the city, continuously inhabited by the prominent Colonna noble family for over eight centuries. Built in stages over five centuries, this grand palace at the foot of the Quirinal Hill showcases a mix of architectural styles and houses a spectacular collection of Baroque art in its famed gallery. Located adjacent to the Basilica di Santi Apostoli, the palace is a significant landmark that also features extensive gardens, a Throne Room, and offers a unique glimpse into aristocratic life.
Once again we were submerged in the grandeur of the happy few, a place that could only surprise us with the many paintings, sculptures and furniture, all of them showcasing the ultimate decadence. The gardens were almost surreal in the centre of such a busy city and once at the top of the three storeys high water spectacle we had another great view over Rome.
Time was flying by fast and it was time for a well deserved lunchbreak in one of the small alleys leading us to our next destination, the Pantheon.
Unfortunately I had forgotten to buy entrance tickets and not surprisingly it was sold out. Nothing the internet could not solve so we quickly reserved tickets for Monday.
Our next stop was Piaza Navana, a famous Baroque-style public square in Rome, Italy, known for its iconic Fountain of the Four Rivers by Bernini and the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. It maintains the elongated oval shape of the ancient 1st-century Stadium of Domitian, upon which it was built. I must be spoilt by now because as nice as the place was I was a bit underwhelmed.
So instead of staying there long we went for a stroll and ended up at a lovely terrace at the Tiber river. From there we continued to the nearest metro station to return to our appartment.
It had been another impressive day but in spite it was still early both of us decided for a late afternoon nap. The evening was going to be extremely special as we havd tickets for a concert of Steve Hacket, the former guitarist of Genesis in it’s glorious times. It was a coincidence this concert takes place during our stay in Rome but still it made our trip extraordinary nevertheless.
The nap did us really well and after a shower we once again took the metro direction north. We exited at Flaminio station and from there took a bus towards the Auditorium where the concert took place. It turned out to be an open air gig but in Rome that is no problem.
We had a drink and something to eat (nothing special but it filled our stomachs) after which we went to our seats. At nine punctual the concert started, with some newer work from Steve Hackett but gradually he delved into his back catalog as well. After a short break the second set started and according to the reaction of the audience this was what everybody was waiting for, highlights from The Lamb Lies Down On Broadway. I thouroughly enjoyed the selection and sang along with each and every song. For me it was a trip to memory lane and it was hard to believe that the Lamb is celebrating it’s 50th anniversary this year. Next was an even older song, the epic of progressive rock epics, Supper’s Ready. As if the original 23 minutes were not enough Steve played an extended version with an additional long guitar solo at the end, this part was vetoed by the other Genesis members at the time but now there was nothing stopping him to include it to the epic track.
Obviously the encore had to include Firth of Fifth with perhaps the most famous guitar solo from Steve, followed by Los Endos. They played almost 2 ¾ hour, a major achievement for a 75 year old guitarist. Vladi and I were very pleased with the concert, what a treat to our Rome trip.
Fortunately on Fridays and Saturday the metro has extended running times so we had no issues returning to our appartment. There we still drank some water before going to sleep. Both of us agreed not to set an alarm, after the last couple of busy days we deserved a small break.
Appearantly Sunday is a day of rest and somehow we easily slipped into this habit. Both of us were awake at 9, took a refreshing shower and went to a bistro in the area for breakfast. As it was Sunday we decided for a festive prosecco breakfast, it was a holiday after all.
Next we returned to our appartment for a break and we managed to fall asleep again till Vladi’s phone rang. Luigi (Vladi’s nephew) and his son were in front of the building to pick us up for lunch. His girlfriend Anna joined us at their favourite pizzeria where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch.
It was extremely hot today so we really did not feel to go out for sightseeing, instead Luigi brought us back to our appartment where we managed to fall asleep once more. The heat, the impressions, the many kilometers we walked, and definetely our age… Going on a city trip is definetly overwhelming at times and Rome, as beautiful as it is, is no exception to the rule.
Neither of us regretted to have slept most of the day as we simply needed the break. We returned to the restaurant on the corner for a glass of wine and a small bite to eat. But I had misjudged things once again, there are no small bites to eat in Italy. The flavours of the three dishes we ordered were exceptional, the wine, vino nobile di Montepulciano perfectly matched it and we trully enjoyed a great late evening in one of the quiet neighbourhoods of Rome.
The next day would be the final day of sightseeing and it just seemed right that we took a break from it all so on our final day we could enjoy Rome to the fullest again.
Next morning we took the metro to Barberini from where it was only a short walk to the Pantheon, a Roman temple which was presumably dedicated to all the gods, as its Latin name Pantheum, comes from the ancient Greek (Πάνθειον) Pantheion, which means “[the temple] of all the gods”. Its dome, with its distinctive central hole, the “oculus”, is the biggest ever built in masonry.
Although we were early for the timeslot on our ticket, we were allowed in so we could enjoy the fabulous interior and the famous roof. Inside we also visited the tombs of the artist Raphael and the Italian kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. It was a beautiful building and the open space architecture really made one feel humbled under the massive dome.
Once we had seen enough, we returned to the streets of Rome on our way to the final place we wanted to visit, the famous Spanish steps, a monumental Baroque staircase in Rome, Italy, built between 1723 and 1725 by Francesco de Sanctis, linking the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See in Piazza di Spagna below to the church of Trinità dei Monti above. Featuring 135 travertine steps arranged in ramps and terraces, the steps are a popular gathering spot, a picturesque landmark and are adorned with the Fontana della Barcaccia at their base.
I shortly visited the church of Trinità dei Monti, recognizable by its two bell towers – unusual in the Roman landscape, which was consecrated in 1594. Inside there were many chapels dedicated to holy persons. It was a small but beautifully decorated church.
Our final stop of this trip was Trastevere, one of the most pleasant neighborhoods in the city. Its peaceful and bohemian atmosphere is capable of dazzling tourists without failing to attract assiduous Roman citizens.
It was quite a long walk there and we had to cross the Tiber to get there. Once we arrived the difference in atmosphere was noticeable. Trastevere is actually a labyrinth of narrow streets and alley, with plenty of restaurants and terraces to enjoy ourselves. We picked a small restaurant with an inside garden where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch, accompanied by a not so fabulous white wine.
We continued to stroll through the scenic neighborhood and arrived at the Santa Maria church. The Basilica was probably the first official place of Christian worship in Rome. According to the legend, it was built by Pope Callistus I in the 3rd century and was finished by Saint Julius I in 340.
It was rebuilt during the pontificate of Pope Innocent II, Many parts of the church date back to the 12th century; the mosaics, especially those of the façade and those of the apse made by Pietro Cavallini and depicting the “Life of the Virgin”, are important.
It also was the final church of our visit, we had not seen all off the over 930 churches in Rome but felt we had our fair share of them.
We enjoyed some drinks at a terrace and then headed to the next metro station which was a considerable walk as Trastevere is not connected to the metro network. The closest one was at the Colosseum and we thought it would be the perfect place to leave Rome, where it all began a couple of days ago.
On arrival though we found the metro station closed. No signs, no explanations for diversions, nothing. Benvenuto a Italia! We decided not to take any chance and walk to Termini where hopefully the metro line to our apartment would be working. And we were lucky, although as soon we entered Rome’s main train station we were surrounded by chaos, a good thing actually as it made us quickly decide we would avoid it the next day on our way to the airport.
Back at the restaurant around the corner of our apartment we met Luigi one more time for a drink and a farewell. By now our trip truly had come to an end, one final night before we would return home.
Next morning we grabbed a breakfast, packed our suitcase and headed towards the railway station. Of course, our train was rescheduled to another platform, delayed and…. Terminated before our final destination, the airport so we had to switch trains once more. Gladly we had left very timely taking surprises like this into account. The flight home was uneventful. At Eindhoven we took the bus to the parking garage where we had left the car and drove home.
Rome has been absolutely fantastic and breathtaking. What a splendid capital and it seems a week is not enough to enjoy it all. Still it was enough for us, although September the temperatures were still high which made things not easier. We walked over 70 kilometres, saw many monuments and famous places, built over a period of more than 200 years, and indulged on the good food that is available at every corner of the street.
Rome, a city steeped in romantic charm, where cobblestone streets and ancient ruins met candlelit dinners and the timeless allure of history and art. The city’s magical atmosphere, found in iconic landmarks like the Trevi Fountain and Trastevere’s charming alleyways, invited us to create unforgettable memories while embracing at times the dolce far ninety – the sweetness of doing nothing. We had certainly thoroughly enjoyed our week in the city of angels, where time rests and beauty awakens.