Today marked the final train journey of this trip and also the beginning of the 3rd part of the adventure. After I checked out of my hotel, I took a tuk tuk to the railway station where I arrived well in time to board the Janshatabdi Express to New Delhi.
From there another chaotic tuk tuk drive to my hotel, Villa 33. I was overwhelmed about the chaos and noise as I had almost forgotten how traffic in New Delhi was. My driver did not really know where he was going and had to ask several times. Somehow, I fell we were driving in circles but at the end we arrived at well-known grounds as I had stayed two times before at this wonderful place.
I spent over an hour chatting with the friendly owner whilst enjoying a cup of tea, after which I checked in and was brought to my spacious and luxury room. There I relaxed for a while and updated my journal. Then it was time for something completely different…
After a couple of weeks in rural India with little facilities for going out I decided to indulge in the treats of modern India. Social in Haus Khaz Village, a place that I was introduced to by my good friend Asha two years ago. It’s a trendy club with fantastic cocktails and great food. It’s extremely popular with the well of youngster from Delhi and has a fabulous vibe. Time to relax and switch off from my previous experiences. I had landed in another world….
Oh, happy days! When I woke up I realised this day would for sure be one of the highlights of this trip. 11 years ago, during a stopover in Delhi from Kashmir back home I followed a cooking class at Saffron Palate, from Neha Gupta. We became good friends and, together with her husband Anmol have met every time I was in Delhi. We celebrated Holi, went out for dinner and had great discussions and became really good friends. Some months ago, I even had the pleasure to show them Maastricht and had dinner at our house. A great opportunity to show them a bit of my world.
When I knew, I would return to India I could not resist to plan another stopover in Delhi to revive good times and make new memories. Today Neha organised something different, a street food tour, to celebrate our passion for cooking and Indian food.
But there was still some time to kill before we met so I took a tuk tuk to Haus Khaz village in order to visit the Tomb of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, the burial monument of Firoz Shah Tughlaq. Built in the late 14th century, the tomb reflects the simple yet massive architectural style of the Tughlaq dynasty.
It looked out over Deer Park, a large green park known for its natural surroundings, walking paths, and enclosures with deer and other animals. Truly a green oasis in the center of Delhi, though I had no time to go for a stroll as I did not want to be late for my date with Neha.
I was picked up by her and her driver who brought us to Chadni Chowk, the true center of Old Delhi where we met Jandeep, our guide.
Chandni Chowk is India in its purest form. The streets are chaotic and crowded, filled with rickshaws, scooters, street vendors, and shoppers all moving through narrow lanes at the same time. The atmosphere can feel overwhelming, with constant noise, movement, and the smells of street food and spices in the air. At the same time, it is incredibly colorful; bright fabrics, sparkling jewelry, piles of spices, and decorated shopfronts everywhere you look. Around every corner there is a surprise: a hidden temple, a famous food stall, a historic building, or a tiny shop selling something unexpected. It is busy and intense, but also vibrant and full of life. The light rain added to the already brilliant atmosphere and I could not have felt more at home than in this.
First, we visited Jain temple followed by a Sikh temple where another festival was going on. This only meant the place was completely crowded but I got goosebumps soaking in the atmosphere.
We continued our walk through the narrow alleys and at places we stopped for a bite to eat at one of the local food stalls. The whole experience was completely overwhelming and I absolutely loved it.
But the best was saved for last…. The spice market. That truly was an assault on the senses in the most overwhelming way imaginable. The narrow lanes are packed with people, porters carrying enormous sacks on their backs, scooters squeezing through impossible gaps, and traders shouting prices across the street. The air itself was thick with spice dust. As we walked through, clouds of chili, turmeric, cumin, and cardamom filled the air, making my eyes water and my nose tingle.
Mountains of spices rose from huge open sacks: deep red chili powder, golden turmeric, earthy brown cumin seeds, and green cardamom pods. Everything was intensely colorful and aromatic. Workers moved quickly, weighing, pouring, and stitching bags while customers bargained loudly. The noise, the colors, the smells, and the constant movement made the whole place feel chaotic and almost dizzying.
It was messy, loud, crowded, and completely overwhelming—but also fascinating. I had never experienced anything like this, a literally breathtaking experience.
After a short break with a mango lassi we took a ricksha back to where we begun and Neha’s driver picked us up. It had been a truly enchanting experience but also a tiring one. Thank you Neha for organizing this fantastic trip for me, how can I ever thank you?
Back at my hotel I had a short rest before I returned to Haus Khaz Village for some drinks and work on my diary. What a fabulous day it had been and I still had another day in Delhi; There are a couple of places I still want to see before I go out for dinner with Neha and her husband Anmol. I truly feel blessed in my beloved India amongst good friends…
Although the day had been absolutely stunning it had also been an overload for the senses. So for the next day I had something more restful in mind.
After breakfast I took an uber to Lodhi garden, a large historic park in New Delhi known for its greenery and important medieval monuments. The garden contains several tombs from the 15th and 16th centuries, built during the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties. These monuments make the garden both a peaceful public park and an important historical site.
It was a beautiful and spotless maintained park, perfect for a stroll and to enjoy the tranquil surroundings, the flowers and the animals. People were out for a stroll, relaxed and lovers had romantic encounters on one of the many couches in the park. Such a tranquil place one could forget one was in Delhi.
Next was a short tuk tuk drive to Agrasen Ki Baoli, a historic stepwell located in the center of New Delhi. It is believed to have been originally built by the legendary king Agrasen and later rebuilt during the medieval period. The baoli is about 60 meters long and has many steps that lead down to a deep-water reservoir. It was nowhere as impressive as the ones I had seen in Rajasthan and other states of India but somehow, I am always impressed by the ingenuity of these places. If the water doesn’t come to us, we should go to the water. A simple idea perrhaps but effective.
On our way to the final destination we passed the India Gate, a famous war memorial located in the center of New Delhi. It was built in 1931 to honor Indian soldiers who died fighting for the British Army during World War I. The large stone arch stands about 42 meters tall and has the names of thousands of soldiers engraved on it.
After a short stop we continued to Dilli Haat, an open-air food and craft bazaar in New Delhi, managed by Delhi Tourism. It acts as a permanent, air-conditioned-free, village-market-style venue, bringing together rural artisans and regional cuisines from across India, offering handicrafts, handlooms, and diverse culinary experiences in a single, cultural setting.
It all sounded nice but I was a bit underwhelmed. Compared to the things I had seen before this was nothing special, or just not my thing.
Back at the hotel I went out for a drink and a bite to eat after which I slept for an hour or so.
Then it was time to get ready for the final evening in Delhi, an evening out with my friends Neha and Anmol. I took an uber to their place where we had a nice chat before we left for a traditional Indian restaurant. We enjoyed a fantastic meal whilst engaged in the most wonderful conversations. Time flew by too quickly and when we said our goodbyes
I had to make a promise to include Delhi next time I come to India, a promise that was easily made. Thanks Neha and Anmol for your hospitality. Next time India? Or at our place? Time will tell. Danyewad!