Shimla
After a good night of sleep I took a taxi from Chandigarh to Kalka, a one-hour drive. I arrived early at the station in order to board the toy train to Shimla, also known as queen of the hills. The journey to Shimla took over 5 hours to cover the 96km and we crossed 106 tunnels, 864 bridges and over 900 sharp curves during the journey whilst we slowly climbed from an altitude of 625 meters to 2100 meters.
It is known as one of the most scenic and charming rail experiences in India. When we left Kalka the landscape quickly transformed from plains to hills and it did not take long before we drove through lush green hills dotted with pine, oak end deodar trees. Steep valleys and mountains opened up on both sides of the train and I spotted many hillside villages with colourful houses clinging on the slopes.
As the train moved slowly, I had plenty of time to soak in the views. It was definitely not about getting from point A to B but more about a nostalgic, storybook-like journey through the Himalaya’s.
By the time we arrived in Shimla it was already 5PM. A short (and at times steep) walk later I was at my hotel and checked in. After I changed (I had underestimated how cool it would be) I made a steep climb to The Mall. The Mall Road is the heart and soul of the hill station; a lively, scenic street where history, shopping, food, and mountain views all come together. As I was hungry, I entered the first appealing restaurant for something to eat and left the sightseeing for the next day.
Dinner was great and a good conclusion of the day, time to call it a day and return to the hotel.
When I left the hotel the next morning it was raining lightly, something that did not bother me but made me decide to stay in the centre of Shimla and explore Mall Road and the Ridge, two adjoining places that form the heart of Shimla and are the town’s social, cultural, and visual centre.
Mall Road is a long, gently curving promenade that feels like the spine of the hill station. Vehicles are completely absent, so it belongs entirely to pedestrians. On one side, rows of colonial-era buildings rise in layers—wooden façades, sloping roofs, and balconies that hint at British-era charm. On the other side, the land falls away into deep valleys.
Shops, cafés, and old establishments lined the road—places were selling woollens, handicrafts, books, and fresh pastries. The rhythm here was unhurried: people strolled, chatted, stopped for tea, or simply leaned on railings to look out over the hills.
I passed by a coffee bar where I decided to have a short break and enjoy my first coffee of the day. Entering the place was like walking into a time machine, the place was still breathing a colonial atmosphere and even the waiters were smartly dressed in their costume that was designed long time ago.
Outside it was still raining which changed the mood of Mall Road instantly. The usual chatter softened into a gentle hush, as if the town itself was listening to the rain and I could hear my footsteps echo faintly on the slick road, mingling with the rhythmic tap of raindrops.
Umbrellas bloomed in every colour, and drifted past like slow-moving flowers. Locals walked unhurriedly, accustomed to this mountain drizzle, and I could not be bothered by the rain, I was just tremendously enjoying the atmosphere.
At the upper end, the road opened dramatically into The Ridge, a wide, open plaza that felt like a pause in the town’s flow. Unlike the narrow intimacy of the mall, the Ridge is expansive and airy. In spite of the mist that was building up It still offered sweeping views of the surrounding mountains, with layers of hills stretching into the distance.
I paid a short visit to the Christ Church after which I found a nice place to have lunch. Steamed non-veg momos., one of my favourites. By the time I left the restaurant the rain became a bit more intense so I bought an umbrella at one of the many stalls behind the street. By now the rain became slightly unpleasant so I decided to return to my hotel and relax during the rest of the afternoon.
Like almost everyone, I do prefer bright and sunny days, but today I was not agitated by the rain, on the contrary, it enabled me to catch an atmosphere I normally would not have been able to. The distant hills faded into layers of soft grey, half-hidden by drifting clouds. The rain slowed everything down, my pace, my thoughts, even time itself.
And as the rain became heavier while I approached my hotel Shimla felt less like a hill station and more like a memory I was already beginning to miss before I even left. I felt fortunate, I felt intensely happy, I was in peace with my environment. With or without rain. Also, this is my India!
The next day weather was even worse. Rain was pouring down while the clouds changed the landscape from minute to minute, a truly breathtaking experience. It didn’t make sense however to do any sightseeing as the weather was not playing along so instead, I decided to do a café crawl.
Outside the clouds rolled in and covered the hills whilst releasing raindrops on the land below. Different parts of the city were revealed at different times; nature was showing its beauty. Inside I was zipping from my lemon ginger tea to keep warm and read my e-book, something not easy with all the distractions outside. I had lunch at the same café as yesterday and enjoyed the view changing constantly.
I was glad I brought my e-book along so there was no reason to be bored. The weather forced me to slow down and I was ok with that. It’s the way it was and nothing could change it.
Back at my hotel I requested a heater so I could warm my feet and dry my shoes. I spend the remainder of the afternoon in bed, continuing the story that unfolded in my e-book, at letting the world pass by unnoticed.
Early afternoon I returned to the mall where I had a wonderful Thukpa soup (I typical soup from the Himalaya region) with noodles and momos. It was so filling I did not order a main course. On my way back to the hotel, I noticed it was dry for the first time in two days, a promising foresight for the next day?
Once again, I slept al night and woke up by bright light coming through the window. A quick glimpse showed there was no rain and the sun was shining. A perfect way to start my last day in Shimla!
Traditionally I started my day at the Shimla Coffee House for a black coffee after which I continued to the ridge. Over there my jaw dropped. As the rain from the last couple of days had cleared the sky I was treated with a fabulous panorama with snow-capped mountains far at the horizon. It was one of those moments I really got emotional.
After a couple of unintended detours I ended up at the ground station of the Shimla ropeway that led to the Jakhu Hanaman Temple, a simple yet sacred hilltop shrine dedicated to Hanuman. It is known for its peaceful atmosphere and strong mythological connection to the Ramayana; surrounded by forest and marked by a towering Hanuman statue of no less than 33 meters high.
I absolutely loved the atmosphere at the temple and observing the devotees praying around the small shrine. Some of the views over the Himalayas were breathtaking and the whole place felt like a fairy tale.
When I returned at the ground station of the ropeway it did not take long to find a taxi to my next destination, The Viceregal Lodge, which is also known as Rashtrapati Niwas.
The Vinceroi lodge was located about 12 kilometres from Shimla and was built in 1888 during British rule as the summer residence of the Viceroy of India, serving as the centre of political power when the colonial government moved to the cooler hills of Shimla to escape the heat of the plains; it played a crucial role in shaping India’s history, hosting important meetings and decisions, including discussions leading up to the Partition of India.
The guided tours were booked out for the day but I absolutely loved admiring the historic building from the outside and wander around the beautiful gardens surrounding it.
Once I was satisfied with my visit, I called my taxi driver who brought me back close to Shimla, time for lunch with a view over the majestic Himalayas.
Next was a visit to the lower bazar, a lively and bustling market area that offers a more local and authentic glimpse of the town compared to the more touristy spots above; I strolled through narrow lanes and admired the shops and restaurants that catered for the locals of Shimla instead of the visitors. It was one of the more special places and I absolutely loved it.
Time was passing by quickly so I returned to my favourite hangout place for a drink and dinner. Then I returned to the ridge and went for a walkabout to make some pictures at nighttime. It had been a long day, full of impressions and memories.
Dharamshala
Next morning I had arranged a taxi to my next destination, Dharamshala, Dileep was perfectly in time and I was ready for my next stop. In spite the weather had not completely played along during my stay at Shimla I will cherish my memories for a long time. It has been fabulous!
The road journey from Shimla to McLeod Ganj (near Dharamshala) was a beautiful Himalayan drive which took us about 7 hours, covering roughly 250 km. We started by descending through winding, pine-covered hills from Shimla toward Bilaspur, with narrow roads and sharp bends. The route then continued via Hamirpur and Kangra, where the terrain became more open with wider valleys, small towns, and smoother stretches of road.
When we approached Palampur, the scenery became especially striking with lush tea gardens and clear views of the Dhauladhar Range, which once again made my haw drop. From Dharamshala, the final climb to McLeod Ganj was steeper and more winding, with narrower roads, cooler air, and dense forest, ending in a vibrant hill town set against dramatic mountain backdrops.
The last 500 metres were the worst as we ended up in the uninventable traffic jam. Dileep dropped me at my hotel after which he started the long way home to Shimla.
I had expected to arrive in a Tibetan enclave in McLeod Ganj but could not have been more wrong. It breathed a completely different atmosphere than I was used to so far. It was a mixture of cultures, a true melt pot. There were plenty of Tibetan monks on the streets but even more tourists, Indian and beyond. I did not know what to feel of it and just let things happen in front of me. Tomorrow is another day, a day where I hope to get the first impressions of Tibetan culture.
Another day, another adventure. The Dalai Lama temple, officially known as the Tsuglagkhang Complex, is the most important spiritual site in the town and one of the main centres of Tibetan Buddhism in India. No wonder I wanted to start my day over there. It was a simple complex but as I was early, I was lucky enough to witness the final part of the morning prayers.
As it was still quiet, I decided to walk the Kora circuit around the temple, a peaceful walking path used for circumambulation, a sacred Buddhist practice. Lined with prayer wheels, fluttering flags, and small shrines, the trail winded through quiet forested areas and offered beautiful views of the mountains. According tradition I walked the circuit clockwise, spinned some wheels and chanted “Om Padme Hum”, which created a calm, almost meditative atmosphere that reflected Tibetan spiritual traditions.
Completely relaxed I arrived back in town and decided for lunch at a rooftop café overlooking the Kalachakra temple. After lunch I visited the temple before making the 2-kilometer downhill walk towards the Tibetan museum, a small but powerful museum showcasing the history, culture, and struggles of Tibetans, especially after their exile from Tibet in 1959.
Through photographs, videos, and personal stories, it highlighted themes of identity, resilience, and human rights. It was one of those museums that completely took me by surprise and left me deeply emotional. The most impressive without doubt however was the conversation I had with. Tibetan and a monk who had fled from Tibet and went in exile in India. It does not happen often I can’t find my words but this was one of those times.
After leaving the museum I got a taxi back to Mcleod Ganj, a good thing as I was not looking forward to the steep climb. I went to a rooftop café for a drink and to enjoy the breathtaking views over the valley and let the experiences of today soak in. Then I returned to my hotel for a short break and administration (Foto’s, journal etc).
In the evening I returned to the centre for a bite to eat. What a fabulous day it has been and my visit over here has just started…
Next morning I was gently awoken by the sunlight although it was only 7:00, this allowed me to have a nice and slow start of the day. Then I went to a café nearby for a coffee and a juice.
I had planned to make a ride on the famous ropeway to Dharamshala but by the time I arrived there was some maintenance going on so I had to wait another hour or so, a good excuse to find another café for breakfast.
Around 11 O’clock the work was finished and the ropeway functional again. It connects the lower town to the popular hill destination of McLeod Ganj. Stretching about 1.8 km, the ropeway provides a quick 10-minute ride that replaces the longer, winding road journey. After I got my ticket, I boarded a gondola for the ride to Dharamsala and enjoyed stunning aerial views of the Dhauladhar mountains, forests, and Kangra Valley.
Dharamsala is quite widespread and feels more like a typical Himachali town with local markets, cafes, and a less touristy vibe compared to the more spiritual and Tibetan-influenced McLeod Ganj. As it was quite a long walk to the centre and I had experienced similar towns before I decided to go back to the ropeway for the return journey uphill. Sometimes the journey is the destination and this ride was definitely so.
Once back in McLeod Ganj I decided to redo the Kora circuit once again and focus on some portrait photography. Thanks to my 70-200mm lens with adapter (changing it into a powerful 400 mm lens) I was able to make some closeups from people without being to smack in the face with them.
But dark clouds were gathering and it did not take long before it started raining and we even had some hail. Time to find a restaurant for something to drink and an extended lunch. During a short break of the downpour, I returned to my hotel for an afternoon nap. As I still had two full days, I did not feel stressed I would miss out on something.
In the evening I went out again to make a series of photos from street food. Well, one certainly can’t deny the Indians have a sweet bite, but there were also plenty of stalls with savoury bites. Even the street dogs got their share of food, something I really enjoyed watching.
After the photo session I went to a rooftop bar for a cocktail whilst enjoying the view. And in spite of all the appetizing bites I saw earlier on my photo tour I decided to go to a restaurant for a delightful portion of vegetarian momos. Another day had come to an end.
A good night of sleep, time for something completely different, time for something more sportive… A hike in the mountains surrounding Mcleod Ganj. My first stop was the Bhagsu Waterfall, an easy and scenic walk of about 3 km. I began along Bhagsu Road, passing through lively streets filled with cafés and shops before reaching the peaceful Bhagsunag Temple area, where the trail became more natural. The final stretch was a bit steeper but manageable, and it ended at the refreshing waterfall cascading over rocks a cool, relaxing spot.
Back at Bhagsu I decided to continue my hike to Dharamkot, a short but noticeably steeper uphill walk. I left the busier lower area behind and followed narrow paths and small roads that winded upward through pine and deodar forests. As I approached Dharamkot, the atmosphere became calmer and more laid-back, with yoga centres, cafés, and guesthouses nestled among the trees.
The next part to Naddi via the forest trails was without doubt the most spectacular part of the hike, winding through dense pine and deodar woods away from the main road. It started from Dharamkot, where I followed narrow dirt paths that gently climbed and curved through the forest, with birdsong, filtered sunlight, and occasional clearings revealing views of the Kangra Valley. Midway, a definite and unexpected highlight was an area filled with Buddhist prayer flags, a quiet spiritual spot surrounded by trees where I paused a while to rest and reflect. After this, the trail continued gradually upward, eventually opening out as I came closer to Naddi, where wider views of the Dhauladhar range and a calm village atmosphere provided a serene and rewarding end to this part of the hike.
From Naddi I followed the road to Dal Lake. In the dry season it certainly looked quite different from its lush monsoon form. The water level had dropped significantly, and it appeared shallow and even partially dried out. Slightly disappointing indeed so I was happy this had not been the main goal of my hike,
The final stretch to Mcleod Ganj I followed the main road, a pleasant downhill walk, making it an easy and refreshing end to my hike. By the time I returned I had completed a hike of 17 kilometre, a bit more than anticipated but definitely worth it and rewarding.
And what better reward myself with a cocktail at a rooftop bar in Mcleod Ganj, followed by lunch to celebrate my achievement of the day. But then it was time to return to my hotel room for a well-deserved rest.
Looking out of the window after I woke up, I saw it was slightly overcast. It was my plan to do a second hike today to Triund in order to get some close-up views of the Dhauladhar Range. But with it being overcast it did not make sense to make that strenuous 7-hour hike so I decided for to for another relaxing stroll through Mcleod Ganj and make some extra pictures.
First I visited the Kalachakra Temple, a serene Buddhist temple located in the center of McLeod Ganj, It is known for its vibrant murals and the sacred Kalachakra (Wheel of Time) teachings. The temple complex features prayer wheels, intricate Tibetan artwork, and a peaceful atmosphere, making it an important spiritual and cultural site for pilgrims.
Next, I returned to the Tsuglagkhang Complex (Dalai Lama temple) and although the morning prayers were over there was enough activity to enjoy. In the courtyard young monks were debating, a thing I saw for the last time 30 years ago when I was in Tibet.
In the main prayer hall monks were reciting holy scripts whilst another group was preparing to make a sand mandala. As the morning prayers were over, I was allowed to visit the main altar where I saw massive statues from some deities, as well as the throne of the Dalai Lama where he is seated when he attends the prayers.
Another rewarding morning after which I returned to a terrace for a blueberry cheesecake and a Tibetan herb tea. Then it was time to return to my hotel for a short afternoon nap.
It was the final day of Part 1 from my trip as I would leave Himachal Pradesh the next morning for my next adventures in Punjab. A good excuse to indulge in a Tibetan massage. I found a nice place and booked a full 90-minute massage. It did well, though it was painful at times. And the end however I felt reborn. I was ready for part three of the trip.