The Intellectual Hub
Next morning we boarded the Frecciarossa, Italy’s high-speed train for a 40-minute ride to Bologna. Then it was another 1,5 kilometer walk to the centre storico where our apartment was located, just around the corner of Piazza Maggiore. Our friendly host was waiting for us and we were allowed to check in early.
As soon as we left the front door, we found ourselves in the middle of centre storico where most interesting places were to be found. Immediately we noticed the calm and tranquil atmosphere, what a difference with Firenze. This felt so good.
By coincidence we found the Archiginnasio Di Bologna, the oldest university in the world, built in 16th century. It was like walking into a different world but we only explored the central Court Yard as we had tickets for the next day.
We strolled through Bologna’s famous porticoes They are one of the city’s most distinctive and beloved features, forming a vast network of covered walkways that stretch for over 62 kilometres. Built primarily between the 11th and 20th centuries, they reflect Bologna’s unique urban development and blend of architectural styles—from medieval wooden structures to elegant Renaissance arches. Today however we remained in the historic centre.
Back at Piazza Maggiore I visited the Basilica Di San Petriono, a monumental Gothic church located in the heart of Bologna, Italy, dominating the city’s main square. Dedicated to Saint Petronius, Bologna’s patron and 5th-century bishop, its construction began in 1390 under architect Antonio di Vincenzo. Vladi remained outside and took a rest at one of the many terraces.
After the visit I joined him and we enjoyed a well-deserved Campari Spritz. Then we continued our walk and not much later arrived at Le Due Torri (The Two Towers), which are iconic medieval landmarks in Bologna. They consist of the Torre degli Asinelli and the Torre Garisenda. Built in the 12th century by noble families, they were both defensive structures and symbols of prestige. By now both towers are tilting at dangerous levels so we could not get close as the premises were blocked. Still an extremely impressive sight and both of us wondered how long the towers will still last.
By now we were getting a bit hungry so we stopped at a lovely terrace for a traditional tagliatelle a ragu and a wonderful glass of Amarone Valpolicallo. It was a welcome break of the day and it was wonderful to thoroughly enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.
Surprises are never far away in Italy and hardly had we continued our walk we discovered a gelateria which offered parmingiano and virgin olive oil ice-cream, how could we resist…
But it was time to relax so we returned to our apartment for a well-deserved afternoon nap.
We did not wake up from that until 19:30, got dressed and hit the streets again. We crossed Piazza Maggiore and ended up in a narrow street which was a true culinary delight. Locals enjoying themselves with a good glass of wine, fresh local products and simply having a wonderful time. For me it was simply la bella vita and I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere.
Our minds were made up already though so we returned to the place where we had lunch earlier and ordered a bottle of Amarone, which we enjoyed watching the world go by.
It was one of those rare moments where I felt absolutely utterly happy and in pease with the world around no me. Florence has been magnificent but in Bologna I truly experienced the Italian way of life.
What a wonderful evening, one more day in Bologna and I was truly looking forward to it.
Next morning we started the day with a typical Italian breakfast at a cafe opposite of our apartment.
Then we returned to Archiginnasio Di Bologna, the oldest university in the world, as we had tickets to visit the Teatro Anatomico, a historic anatomical theatre. Built in 1637, it was used for teaching anatomy to medical students at the University of Bologna. The room is entirely made of wood and arranged like an amphitheater, with a central marble table where dissections were performed.
Part of our visit was through study room from where we had a brilliant view over the extensive library which is rightfully off limits to tourist but is the source of inspiration for students.
Not much further away was the Basilica – Santuario Di Santo Stefano, also known as the “Sette Chiese” (“Seven Churches”), a unique religious complex. Situated on Piazza Santo Stefano, it comprises a series of interconnected churches and chapels built between the 4th and 13th century.
Our next goal was Santuario della Madonna Di San Luca, the sanctuary’s origins trace back to the 12th century when a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary, attributed to St. Luke, was brought to Bologna by a pilgrim from Constantinople.
We had the choice to either do the famous 4-kilometre-long porticoes walk uphill to the sanctuary or to get tickets for a stupid tourist train which made the journey much easier. We set our pride apart and bought two tickets for the tourist train.
The views from the sanctuary, located on a hill above Bologna was magnificent but it was even better from top of the dome which we climbed for the sky experience.
Back at piazza Maggiore we returned to restaurant we were yesterday for a late lunch. Before going back to our apartment for a well-deserved lunch we enjoyed a brilliant gin tonic at the same bar where we started the day.
After our nap we returned to our favourite street for a bite to eat, and ended up at a table in front of an absolute fantastic salumeria. We ordered a mixed place of cold cut meat, as well as a portion of 60 months matured parmigiana.
It was one of those moments I got really emotional as the food was extraordinary, as well as the place we were. I might come from Limburg, the most bourgondic province from the Netherlands but being here I really feel we haven’t got a clue. This is real life, this is la Bella Italia.
To finish of a perfect evening we ordered a Brunello Di Montalcino, followed by a Barolo.
Florence had been overwhelming but Bologna, for me it felt more like the true Italy. This night definitely was the highlight of the trip so far for foodies like us.