Where the Sea Sings
The alarm went off and way in time we made it to the terminal building to board the ferry to Capri. The crossing took just over an hour and slowly we saw Napoli disappear from sight.
Arriving at the port was a bit chaotic but finally we found the place where we had to join the queue for the taxi to Anacapri. The taxi was true Capri style, convertible but with a sunscreen above to shelter us from the burning sun. The ride, with views from the coastline was fantastic, a good preview of what was to come. Whitewashed houses everywhere and below us we could see the expensive yachts of the jet set.
Anacapri is the quieter, more authentic side of Capri, perched high above the sea on the island’s western slopes. Its whitewashed streets, peaceful piazzas, and traditional charm offered a relaxed contrast to the bustling town of Capri. It was island life away from the crowds but still we couldn’t say it was quiet.
Our hotel was located somewhere in an alley of narrow streets so we walked the last part as our taxi couldn’t get there. We were wholeheartedly welcomed at the reception after which we were brought to our room. Next, we went on a stroll through the beautifully decorated building and we discovered a wonderful pool with views to die for. Immediately we decided to spend some hours there later in the day.
But first we returned to the center of Anacapri, loaded with tourist shops and (pricy) restaurants, something we had already expected.
We made our way to the Monte Solaro chairlift, initially we hesitated to join the queue but it seemed to move fast so we did anyway. During a scenic 13-minute ride we were gently carried to the highest point on Capri Island. Whilst gliding above lemon groves, vineyards, and terraced gardens, the open-air single-seat lift offered spectacular views of the Bay of Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and the island’s dramatic cliffs. At the summit, we were rewarded with one of the most breathtaking panoramic viewpoints in southern Italy.
The way down was perhaps even more spectacular as now we were seated properly to enjoy the spectacular panorama that was unfolding below us. Back at Anacapri we had a bite to eat and then returned to our hotel for some relaxing hours at the pool.
We could not have wished for a better setting, an inviting pool, super friendly staff who brought us our limoncello spritz and made sure the sunscreen was set up in such a way we were laying in the shade, but the best and almost surreal thing was the view of Mount Vesuvius at the other side of the bay of Naples.
Today felt like we were really enjoying a lazy holiday, but not for long as next day we would explore the island of Capri, an island where rugged cliffs rise from a sea of impossible blue, lemon blossoms scent the warm air, and every winding path reveals another breathtaking view. It’s is a place where nature, history, and timeless elegance come together, and it gives us a feeling that we have stepped into a dream.
In the evening we returned through the narrow alleys to the center of Anicapri where we looked for a place to eat. We decided to keep things simple and enjoyed a simple pizza as the prices were, oh well we knew beforehand that Capri wasn’t going to be cheap… Back at our hotel we talked for a bit about the previous day and fell into a deep and happy sleep.
Next morning we woke up early and headed towards the breakfast area. Then er walked to the bus stop for our bus to Capri. In spite of the early time of the day the bus was fully packed and we felt like sardines in a tin. Down the narrow streets we went, down to Capri. This time there was no change to enjoy the sights, fortunately there was enough to be seen once we arrived in Capri.
The bus stop looked out over the harbor and was close to the central piazza of Capri. As the day trippers had not arrived yet it was relatively quiet so we decided to take the opportunity and headed straight to Giardini di Augusto, beautifully landscaped terraced gardens offering some of Capri’s most spectacular views. We saw plenty of colorful flowers and Mediterranean plants, whilst we walked over peaceful pathways that lead to breathtaking panoramas of the Faraglioni sea stacks, the Bay of Marina Piccola, and the winding Via Krupp below.
As Via Krupp was too steep for Vladi we decided to skip Marina Piccola and headed the other way towards The Certosa di San Giacomo, Capri’s oldest monastery which was founded in 1371. Its elegant Gothic cloisters, quiet courtyards, and simple architecture offered a tranquil escape from the busy streets. The former Carthusian monastery hosted art exhibitions and a museum dedicated to the German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach, combining centuries of history with contemporary culture in a serene setting. The best to our liking was the central courtyard, filled with herbs which created a beautiful scent in the air.
After we felt we saw enough we found our way through the narrow alleys and enjoyed a scenic walk through Mediterranean vegetation with spectacular views of the Faraglioni, Villa Malaparte, and Capri’s rugged eastern coastline. Our goal was The Arco Naturale, one of Capri’s most impressive natural landmarks—a towering limestone arch formed from the collapse of an ancient sea cave thousands of years ago. Standing 18 metres high with a 12-metre span, it overlooks dramatic cliffs and the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. Unfortunately Vladi skipped the last part as he did not want to stress his knee too much so he waited for me while I completed the last stetch towards the arch.
On the way back we made a well deserved stop to drink some water and enjoy a lemon granita, whilst we enjoyed the beautiful drops into the sea below us. Back at the centre of Capri we enjoyed the atmosphere and noticed it had become much busier, it could only mean one thing, the cruise ships and day tourists had arrived. We took the funicolare down to the harbour and had a light lunch.
Then we joined the queue for the bus to Anicapri. We missed the first one as it was fully “packed” before it was our turn to join but with the second bus, thirty minutes later we were more lucky. And so were many others. Officially about 20 people were allowed in the bus but in the end we were at least 60 of us, every possible space was used. Benvenuto a la bella Italia!
In Anicapri we enjoyed a limoncello spritz and a orange sorbet before we returned to our hotel. We had a friendly chat with the lady who owned the place after which we spent the rest of the afternoon at the pool.
Back at our room we fell asleep and by the time we woke up it was 8 o’clock, time to get up and head to the centre again. Vladi had found a small tratoria that he wanted to try so we headed there. We were given a nice table for two in the garden and opted for grilled zuchinni flowers to share and a pasta dish each. The pasta was home made and excellent of taste. Happy and satisfied we returned to our hotel for a final glass of wine. One more night and our time at Capri had come to an end. The next day we would travel to our next destination, Sorrento.
We had set the alarm but woke up before it rang so we had the opportunity to slowly pack our things,shower and head to the breakfast room. Then we said our goodbye to the super friendly owner and we were brought to the bus and taxi stand. Because of our experience the previous day we had already decided not to take the bus but go to the harbour by taxi. However on arrival we noticed the bus was still empty so we changed our plans and took the bus. We even had seats for the 15 minute drive to the harbour. There we had to ask a couple of times to find the right spot to board the ferry.