Under the Shadow of Vesuvius
As our suitcases and hand luggage had already been packed the day before our morning of departure was easy going. We enjoyed our cup of coffee, had a refreshing shower and tidied the last bits in the house. We were ready for yet another trip that was initiated by the best band in the world, we were ready for la Bella Italia, we were ready for Marillion!
At 11:30 our friend Goran picked us up and brought us to Dusseldorf Airport. Dropping our luggage was a piece of cake, as was security. Way too early (but better than one minute too late) we were at the gate for our short flight to Vienna from where we took a connecting flight to Napoli.
We landed as planned and not much later we found ourselves in a shared taxi to Garabaldi station. There we took a short metro ride towards Piaza Municipio from where it was only a short walk to our accommodation.
The room was absolutely great but that was for later, we now headed to the streets of the Spanish quarter where our accommodation was located to enjoy the atmosphere and find something to eat.
That was easier than we thought as the narrow alleys parallel to Via Toledo were packed with restaurants. The atmosphere was vibrant and I fell in love with it at first sight. Such a vivid and entertaining area. Everywhere people were eating and having a good time.
We found a cozy place to eat and the lady who seated us took me by the arm and we danced towards our table. Only in Napoli… It was a good choice as the atmosphere was absolutely brilliant. A karaoke speaker was blasting Italian festive music in the air and by passers and people sitting at one of the tables took the microphone and sang along. It was absolutely fantastic.
Whilst enjoying a limoncello spritz we looked at the menu and Vladi selected two dishes he had not eaten for a long time whilst I opted for a spaghetti Frutti di mare as a starter and grilled octopus as a main. We were enjoying ourselves so much I could not help smiling all the time and the food was simply gorgeous. What a way to start a holiday!
Walking back to our room we enjoyed another limoncello Spritz after which it was time to go to bed. This trip had certainly started with a blast!!!!
Next morning was an easy start as our first booking was not until 11:00. We took the metro from the famous Toledo Metro Station which is widely regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful metro stations. Opened in 2012 and designed by Spanish architect Óscar Tusquets Blanca, it forms part of the city’s “Art Stations” project. Its striking blue mosaics, dramatic lighting, and the spectacular Crater de Luz light shaft which created the illusion of descending beneath the sea. It was a great start of the day.
First we enjoyed a light breakfast Italian style before we went to our first visit. By the time we arrived there was already a queue forming. Cappella Sansevero is a small 16th-century chapel renowned for its extraordinary Baroque art and sculpture. Its masterpiece, The Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino, is celebrated for its remarkably lifelike marble veil. Vladi had mentioned it several times, as did my Italian teacher so I was really happy I could see it with my own eyes. Neither of them had been exaggerating, it truly is a magnificent piece of art. The whole chapel was overwhelming and at times we did not know where to look as there was so much to be seen!
We left the chapel and passed another church nearby. Not surprising as Naples has between 800 and 1000 of them. This one was called Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo and was a beautiful Baroque church in the heart of Naples’ historic center. Built in the 16th century and richly decorated with frescoes, marble, and gilded details, it is closely linked to the city’s historic silk guild. Its peaceful interior offered a striking contrast to the lively streets outside.
As we put on our long trousers this morning (something we found out later was not necessary) we decided to visit the duomo di Napoli as well. It’s the city’s principal cathedral, built in the 13th century in a striking blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Neo-Gothic styles. It is dedicated to Saint Januarius (San Gennaro), Naples’ patron saint, whose preserved blood is the focus of the famous annual “Miracle of San Gennaro.” We noticed a rooftop experience was offered and we decided to do so. We walked along the elevated terraces high above the cathedral where we enjoyed panoramic views of Naples’ historic center, with vistas stretching to Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples. It certainly was an unforgettable look at one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
We strolled through the centro storico the vibrant historic heart of Naples and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its maze of narrow streets, lively piazzas, historic churches, artisan workshops, and bustling cafés reflects more than 2,500 years of history. It offered an authentic taste of Naples’ rich culture, architecture, and everyday life. Compared to the other Italian cities I have visited it has a slightly rawer edge (and this is meant in the most positive way possible) and somehow it seems to be so much more vibrant and alive.
We enjoyed a lemon spritz and went to Napoli Sotterranea which took us 40 meters beneath the streets of Naples into a fascinating underground world. The guided tour explored ancient Greek aqueducts, Roman tunnels, World War II air-raid shelters, and hidden passageways, revealing over 2,400 years of the city’s history. We squeezed through a series of very narrow tunnels, once part of the ancient water system, offering a thrilling glimpse into the city’s hidden underground labyrinth. For Vladi this was an amazing challenge as normally he is not keen on confined spaces.
Once back at street level we enjoyed a simple lunch (and another lemon spritz) before we slowly headed back to Piazza Dante. But instead of taking the metro we slowly walked along Via Toledo back to our B&B to get rid of our long trousers and enjoy a well-deserved cold shower. After a short rest we hit the streets again.
This time our goal was to go to the harbor and Lungo Mare. On the way we found out where to take the ferry to Capri in two days’ time and then entered an area which obviously was much more upmarket than we were had experienced before. It was beautiful and still it looked so much different from the Napoli we were used to.
Back at our accommodation we took a short rest and then headed back to Quartieri Spagnoli and its vibrant atmosphere. We found a wonderful place to eat, unfortunately all outside tables were occupied. But… that’s never an issue in Napoli as within a minute a table was set up for the both of us in the middle of the street.
Dinner was absolutely wonderful, pure and full of flavors. Once finished we slowly moved back to our place for the night but made another stopover at the same bar we enjoyed our final limoncello spritz the day before.
Another day had come to an end and I can only say it was spectacular. Napoli is perhaps the least appreciated city of Italy. But I don’t care, I simply love it! What a place!!!!
As the last day had been action packed and a bit tiring, we decided to make today a bit more relaxed, well, that was the plan at least.
Vladi had mentioned Piazza del Plebiscito, Napoli’s grandest public square a couple of times and as it was nearby that’s where we headed first. It is surrounded by impressive landmarks including the Royal Palace and the neoclassical Basilica of San Francesco di Paola. The latest reminded me a bit of the Pantheon in Rome although here the hole in the roof structure was covered.
We enjoyed the place and Vladi told me of his time in the military where he spent three months in Napoli and this was one of the places he visited frequently. Then we headed back to via Toledo where we boarded the funicolare centrale that brought us to the higher suburbs from Naples.
From there we walked to Castel Sant’Elmo, a striking star-shaped medieval fortress perched on Vomero Hill, overlooking Naples. Originally built in the 14th century and later expanded, it offered some of the city’s most spectacular panoramic views, stretching across the historic center, Mount Vesuvius, and the Bay of Naples.
It was a brilliant location and before continuing to our next stop we enjoyed fresh lemon juice (no sugar added) and a sparkling water whilst we enjoyed a breathtaking view over Naples and the Vesuvius. Our day could not go wrong after this.
Certosa di San Martino was built at the foot of Castel Sant’Elmo and is a former Carthusian monastery renowned for its elegant Baroque architecture, peaceful cloisters, and richly decorated church. Now a museum, it showcased Neapolitan art, historic nativity scenes, and offers breathtaking views over Naples and the Bay of Naples.
We enjoyed an hour or so at the premises and then headed back to the funicolare centrale, as we got lost the way back was much longer than the way up but fortunately, I had the perfect Italian speaking guide with me so after several enquiries and a walk that was much longer than anticipated we made it back to the station.
Back at the lower part of Napoli we returned to quartieri spagoli where we enjoyed a late lunch which was accompanied by a well-deserved limoncello spritz and a bottle of local white wine. The bad thing about Italy is the food, it is so full of flavors and textures that back home everything appears dull.
We shared an insalata calabrese that blew our minds, followed by pizza which was simple but delicious. To finish off we enjoyed a fernet branca at our favorite bar and then returned to our room for a well-deserved break.
It wasn’t planned but we fell asleep, perhaps because we needed it. When we woke up, we returned to the narrow streets of Quartieri Spagnoli for a light dinner and a final limoncello spritz. Napoli is nothing like we experienced in Italy before but we absolutely loved it.
Next morning the alarm went off as we had to be in time for another adventure. First, we took the Metro to Stazione Garibaldi where we boarded the Circumvesuviana train to Ercolana. We arrived a bit early so there was time for breakfast.
Then it was time to get on a bus which brought us close to the summit of the Vesuvuius. From the parking lot the walk to the summit of Mount Vesuvius was a scenic 20–30 minute climb along a well-maintained volcanic trail. The path winded through black lava rock and volcanic ash before reaching the crater rim, where we looked into the volcano and enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views of the Bay of Naples, Capri, and the surrounding coastline. It was a unique opportunity to experience one of the world’s most famous active volcanoes up close.
At the end of the trail there was a small shop and I could not resist to drink a glass of white Lacryma Christi (“Tears of Christ”), the famous wine of Mount Vesuvius, produced from grapes grown in the fertile volcanic soils on the volcano’s slopes.
We slowly made our way back and Vladi made real good use of the Nordic walking sticks I had bought for him before the trip. The bus was already waiting for us at the parking lot and not long after our arrival we returned to Ercolana.
There we enjoyed a light seafood lunch before we headed towards the ruins of Herculaneum which were not far away. They are among the best-preserved Roman archaeological sites in the world. Buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79, the town was sealed beneath volcanic mud, preserving multi-storey houses, colorful frescoes, mosaics, wooden structures, and everyday objects in remarkable detail. We walked through its ancient streets which offered a fascinating glimpse into daily life in a wealthy Roman seaside town nearly 2,000 years ago.
By now it was getting terribly hot and we were really suffering from it. We decided to return to the station and head back to Napoli. Once we arrived at the Toledo Metro station, we enjoyed a refreshing drink in a bar at the Spanish quarter before we returned to our accomadation for a shower that was badly needed as well as a short rest.
Later in the evening we headed back to the alley where the restaurants were located for a bite to eat. We did not make it late as tomorrow we are travelling to our next location. Naples has been great but we were ready for some island life.