The Scent of Lemons and Salt
The crossing was gentle end truly enjoyable and slowly we saw Capri become smaller whilst we headed towards the port of Sorrento. There we took a taxi to our apartment but as we were early, we left our luggage behind and went for a walk. From a beautiful viewpoint we enjoyed the panorama on the coast and headed to a bar for a simple lunch. Then we returned to our accommodation. The heat was overwhelming though and by the time we arrived we felled drained. We checked in, took a refreshing shower and… Slept the rest of the afternoon.
When we finally woke up it was late afternoon but we felt refreshed. Guess walking in the current extreme heat demands a price and it felt good we listened to our bodies and took a rest instead of pressing on.
Our accommodation was located on the outskirts of Sorrento and although initially we wanted to walk there we decided to take it easy and stay in the area. We enjoyed the views over the cliffs towards Sorrento and then found a small bar for a refreshing drink.
Dinner was enjoyed at a local pizzeria after which we returned to our hotel. Much earlier than we were used to but we were satisfied. Tomorrow? That’s another day…
The next day we decided for a sleep in and did not set an alarm. Only to wake up just after seven, cuddle up for another hour or so and be fully awake by eight. After a refreshing shower we headed to the local bar for breakfast and then continued our way to the centre of Sorrento.
There were some beautiful hiking paths high above Sorrento where we could walk through yards of lemon trees whilst admiring unbelievable sceneries but because of the heat we decided not to go there.
We spent the day wandering through Sorrento’s charming streets, where colourful boutiques, artisan shops, and cafés lined the historic centre. The scent of fresh lemons filled the air as we explored hidden alleyways and lively piazzas before stopping at one of the town’s breathtaking viewpoints overlooking the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius.
We took our time to enjoy a leisurely lunch in a small trattoria which looked not to touristy and breathed a traditional Italian atmosphere. Then we returned to the cliffs above the sea and watched the fishing boats and ferries drifting by with the Vesuvius in the background.
The heat was overwhelming and more than once we stopped at a place for a refreshing drink, and alcoholic or not, lemon always was the main ingredient.
It was a spectacular day and both of us extremely enjoyed it. But the heat took its toll so we slowly headed back to our accommodation with a short stopover at the bar where we had breakfasted this morning. This time it was limoncello spritz time however after which we enjoyed a really needed shower at our room, followed by a well-deserved rest.
Twice before we had already spotted a charming restaurant not too far from our accommodation so after our rest we decided to go there for dinner. It was the right decision. It turned out to be a family run restaurant with only used fresh ingredients. We shared a platter of cut meat and cheese which really wetted our appetite. Vladi had pasta with calamari while I enjoyed a fishermen pasta cooked in aluminium foil. Both of us were really happy and we considered it to be one of the best meals we enjoyed so far.
Once again, we woke up before the alarm went off so there was plenty of time to get ready before our taxi to the harbour arrived. There we waited until our ferry was ready to board and found a place at the outside deck on the left side so we could enjoy the spectacular views of the Amalfi coastline.
The ferry journey from Sorrento to Positano and then on to Amalfi is known as one of the most scenic ways to experience Italy’s Amalfi Coast. We departed from Sorrento’s Marina Piccola, and headed to the Tyrrhenian Sea, while we were offered breathtaking views of dramatic limestone cliffs, hidden coves, and elegant villas perched high above the coastline.
As Positano came into view, its colourful pastel houses appeared to tumble down the mountainside toward the beach, creating one of Italy’s most iconic landscapes. After a short stop in Positano, the ferry continued along the rugged coastline to Amalfi, passing towering cliffs, charming seaside villages, and crystal-clear waters. When we arrived in Amalfi, at the picturesque harbour, we immediately saw the town’s historic charm, with the magnificent Cathedral of Saint Andrew rising above the lively piazza. Here we disembarked as we had to change to another ferry to our destination.
Shortly after arrival we departed the harbour again and now sailed past even more dramatic cliffs, terraced lemon groves, and colourful villages nestled into the mountainsides. After a short stop in Minori we continued to Maiori, our destination of today. The coastline opened to reveal the town’s long sandy beach—the largest on the Amalfi Coast—lined with palm trees, cafés, and a lively seaside promenade.
On our way to our accommodation, we made a short stop for a lemon granita after which we continued. We were welcomed wholeheartedly by the owner and after a friendly chat we were shown our room. There we couldn’t wait to shower once again before we returned towards the beach for lunch.
On our way we found a lovely spot where we were served two excellent dishes. Once again Vladi selected a dish from his childhood whilst I opted for spaghetti with squid ink and raw salmon marinated in lemon (what else). Both were extremely flavoursome and we truly enjoyed them.
Next, we made a short walk through the city and the beach. The difference with Sorrento could not have been bigger, everything was so quiet and much less crowded. We passed a gelateria where we enjoyed an ice-cream and continued our walk. By now the heat was unbearable though and as most shops were closed for siesta (another of the things that made us realize we were at a less touristy area) we returned to our room and fell asleep for a couple of hours.
By the time we woke up it was getting close to dinner time so we got dressed again and returned to the centre where it was difficult to choose from the plenty of restaurants. But we had already spotted a special place which was in business over 100 years. We got the last table in front of the restaurant and enjoyed a truly spectacular dinner.
To finish off the evening we made a short stroll, had a ferntet branca to digest our meal and once we returned from the beach one final limocello spritz to call it a day.
Both of us felt Maiori was the perfect place to explore the Amalfi coast. We had already made short stops at Positano and Amalfi but the next days we would have some more time to explore these places.
After a good night of sleep, we woke up well in time. Just after 8 we left our accommodation and strolled at ease to the harbour. The temperature was still wonderful but we knew it wouldn’t last. We boarded our ferry and like the day before we had to changes ferries in Amalfi for our trip to Positano. By the time we arrived, hardly an hour later the sun was high at the sky and made the temperature rise rapidly.
Positano is a picturesque cliffside village on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, renowned for its colourful houses that cascade down steep hillsides toward the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. Narrow, winding streets lined with boutiques, cafés, and restaurants create a charming atmosphere, while fragrant lemon trees and vibrant bougainvillea add to its Mediterranean beauty. Dominated by the iconic Church of Santa Maria Assunta with its distinctive majolica-tiled dome, Positano blends rich history, elegant architecture, and relaxed coastal living.
From the moment we set foot on the shore we knew we were back at a touristic hotspot, it was super crowded, even at this time of the day. First, we slowly made our way uphill to get enjoy the famous view of Positano, with its houses glued upon the hill and narrow alleys in between that were unseen for the eye. It was a beautiful spot indeed, the perfect place to enjoy a light breakfast, then we returned to the centre of Positano which was filled with shops, bars and restaurants. The narrow alleys were filled with tourist on their way to, well, most likely like us, on the way wherever our footsteps brought us.
Positano definitely is a wonderful place to stroll around and around every corner there’s something new to discover, at one of its piazza’s I found a long stairway leading to somewhere and it made me really curious. Vladi stayed behind as it was too stressful for his knee so I started climbing on my own. After a long series of steps there was a corner and more steps… This went on for 20 minutes or so after which I decided to return as there was no end of the steps in sight. Vladi was waiting for me at the piazza where I left him and together, we continued our stroll. We were in the mood for a limoncello spritz but with the prices in Positano (up to 17 Euro a glass) we decided to wait until we were back in Maiori where prices are at a normal level.
We had spent a couple of hours in Positano by now and returned to the harbour to book a seat for our return journey. By 14:30 we arrived in Maiori and noticed most restaurants were closed for a couple of hours. Fortunately, we found a nice place at the lungomare where we enjoyed a fantastic lunch. Outside there was a lady selling lemons stuffed with lemon sorbet and who were we to ignore her…
Back at our accommodation we took a refreshing shower and intended to relax for a couple of hours. The heat must have really been exhausting me as by the time I woke up it was a quarter past nine. As neither of us was hungry we decided to skip dinner and stay at our room. It can’t hurt skipping dinner once in a whilst in Italy. It had been a beautiful day (once again…)
In spite of having slept most of the afternoon yesterday Vladi had to wake me up this morning but there was still plenty of time to catch the 8:55 ferry to Amalfi.
Once there we bought tickets for the bus to Ravello from the men with the blue shirts across the street and not much later we were on our way to the first destination of the day, Ravello.
Ravello is a charming hilltop town on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, celebrated for its breathtaking views, peaceful atmosphere, and rich cultural heritage. Perched high above the Mediterranean Sea, it offers a quieter alternative to the region’s busier coastal towns while captivating visitors with its elegant villas, lush gardens, and historic architecture. With its winding medieval streets, picturesque piazzas, and stunning scenery, Ravello is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful and romantic destinations on the Amalfi Coast.
First, we visited Villa Rufulo, a historic villa that dates back to the 13th century, when it was built by the wealthy and influential Rufolo family, one of the most powerful merchant families in medieval southern Italy. The villa reflected Arab, Norman, and Gothic architectural the family’s wealth and featured a unique blend of styles, showcasing the cultural influences of the Kingdom of Sicily. Over the centuries, the estate gradually fell into decline until it was purchased and restored in the 19th century by the Scottish botanist Francis Neville Reid, who transformed its gardens while preserving much of its historic character. It was a beautiful place to visit and we enjoyed the exhibition in several rooms of the compound.
Next, we continued to the narrow alleys of Ravello and enjoyed the shops and relatively relaxed atmosphere. Of course, we could not resist a home-made gelato after which we returned to the bus stand for the short ride back to Amalfi.
Amalfi is a historic seaside town on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, known for its colourful buildings, dramatic cliffs, and rich maritime history. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, it was one of the four great Maritime Republics of Italy, becoming a powerful centre of trade and navigation throughout the Mediterranean. Today, Amalfi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that attracts visitors with its charming streets, lively piazzas, beautiful beaches, and stunning coastal scenery.
First, we visited the Duomo di Amalfi, officially the Cathedral of Saint Andrew, which is the town’s most iconic landmark. Originally built in the 9th century, the cathedral has been expanded and restored over the centuries, resulting in a striking blend of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Byzantine architectural styles. Its grand staircase led to an impressive façade decorated with colourful mosaics and bronze doors cast in Constantinople in the 11th century.
Then we went on a walkabout through the narrow alleys of Amalfi and had a light lunch of grilled fish. By the time we returned to the harbour we were surprised to meet by two of our Norwegian Marillion friends, Sune and Sølvi.
Instead of taking the boat we decided to take the bus and experience a bit of the Amalfi coastal road. Back in Maiori we enjoyed a well-deserved drink at a local bar before returning to our accommodation. This time I set the alarm however as I did not want to miss out on another exquisite meal…
We left our accommodation just in time as by 8pm people start going out in Italy. We got one of the last tables at ristorante Mario e Maria, which has been run for 5 generations. Dinner was fabulous after which we returned to a bar for our final limoncello spritz of the evening. It was time to go to bed but what a fabulous day it has been. In spite of the heat, in spite of the crowds, I am falling in love with this part of Italy…
The day started with a bit of a sleep-in as our ferry to our next destination did not leave until 09.25. It was only a short trip to Cetera, our next destination. Cetara is a charming fishing village on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, known for its colourful houses, peaceful harbour, and strong maritime traditions. Unlike some of the region’s busier tourist destinations, Cetara offered a quieter, more authentic atmosphere where we strolled through narrow streets, relax on small beaches, and enjoy fresh seafood caught by local fishermen. The village is especially famous for its colatura di alici, a traditional anchovy sauce that has been produced for centuries and is a prized ingredient in Italian cuisine.
Cetera is rather small so we were finished exploring it quite fast, we had a drink at a pub overlooking the sea and then found a small restaurant where we decided to taste the famous spaghetti alla colatura di alici. Whilst zipping from a refreshing glass of white wine we noticed a large argument coming from the staff in the kitchen. Vladi understood every word but I could only laugh. Some words like cazzo and vaffanculo I picked up and I could only hope the cooking skills were as passionate as the swearing. And it was! The flavour of the spaghetti was simply out of this world.
A short ferry ride later we returned in Maiori where, before returning to our accommodation, we enjoyed another limoncello spritz. Then it was time for a siesta, but not before both of us had a refreshing and highly needed shower.
Some hours later we returned to the centre of Maiori, the city breathed a relaxed atmosphere compared to some other hotspots on the Amalfi coast, also the temperatures dropped considerably so all the ingredients for a nice evening were there.
We found a nice restaurant at the main street of Maoiri and enjoyed a splendid dinner, then we moved on to a bar for our final limoncello spritz of the day. Once again, it had been a fantastic day at the Amalfi coast. One more to go…
Next day was an early start as we had planned an activity for which we wanted to avoid the heat. We wanted to walk the Sentiero dei Limoni (Path of the Lemons), one of the most scenic and culturally significant walks on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. It connects Maiori and Minori and follows the ancient route that local farmers used for centuries to transport the region’s famous lemons before roads were built.
Unlike many coastal hikes that emphasize dramatic cliff edges, the Sentiero dei Limoni offered a more intimate glimpse into everyday life on the Amalfi Coast. It showcased the centuries-old agricultural landscape that has shaped the region’s identity and economy. The path alternates between shaded sections beneath lemon trees and sunny viewpoints overlooking the coastline.
We started with a steep climb of about 400 steps which were rather demanding for Vladi’s knee. Still, he went on and I was extremely proud of him. As we left early we the lemon gardens where we normally could enjoy a refreshing drink were not open yet, a small price to pay to avoid the heat.
As we descended another 400 steps toward Minori, the trail opened to spectacular panoramas of the town, its beach, and the surrounding hillsides covered in terraces.
It took us about an hour and a half to complete the trail after we set down at a terrace by the beach for a well-deserved breakfast.
There was not a lot to be seen in Minori so we decided to return to Maiori. We had two options, by bus or by boat and luckily, we opted for the first. The bus was 15 minutes late which made us decode to take an even earlier bus to Vietri Sul Mare where we needed to catch a train. Unfortunately, there were strikes planned after 9AM so we had to leave early so we could catch a train before the strikes started.
We changed clothes at our accommodation and headed towards the beach for a refreshing swim. Then we enjoyed a limoncello spritz at a bar at the main road before continuing to a restaurant for a fabulous lunch.
By then it was two o’clock, which could only mean one thing… siesta! By the time we woke up we started preparing our suitcases, the next day would be an early start so better do it now.
Once finished we made the short walk back to the centre for a final limoncello spritz at the Amalfi coast and a bite to eat… That at least was the plan, we had more than one limoncello spritz, we enjoyed a fantastic meal and a great bottle of white. We ended up at a bar for another limoncello spritz and on the way home Vladi wanted a fernet branca to digest our meal.
Sorrento and Amalfi coast? You have been amazing!